Brightening and Dark Spots Correction – HQ and More…

Everyone wishes to look good. Evening the skin tone and reducing the pigmentation of the skin is one of concerns a lot of people care about. The medicinal ingredient, hydroquinone (HQ), has been the gold standard for lightening dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Suggested duration of use should not be more than 4-6 months at a time as prolonged use can potentially cause ochronosis (a persistent blue-black pigmentation) and hydroquinone resistance. To reduce long term risk, our clinical team suggest taking a break from hydroquinone and switching to products containing clinically proven brightening agents. Some of the clinically proven ingredients are as follows:

Oligopeptide-68 
- Reduces age spots on hand and neck after 2 weeks 
- Induces skin lightening effect after only 4 weeks 

Tetrapeptide-30 
- Notably reduces yellow skin tone starting at week 4 and visibly diminishes hyperchromatic spots 

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate 
- Multifunctional ingredient that lightens pigmented spots 

Arbutin 
- Naturally lightens skin 

Niacinamide 
- Clinically proven to reduce hyperpigmented spots 

N-Acetyl Glucosamine 
- Reduces the appearance of dark spots 

These agents are safe to use as a long term brightening treatment and dark spot correction and can be used in conjunction with HQ safely if enhancement of brightening effects is needed.  

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Ingredient Highlight - Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

What is Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate? 

Potassaium Azeloyl Diglycinate is combination of azelaic acid and glycine. Azelaic acid is a skin brightener and sebum normalizer while glycine is a hydrating ingredient.

Let’s talk about azelaic acid first.

Azelaic acid has been shown to be a multitasking ingredient. It reduces hyperpigmented area or dark spots on the skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the production of melanin. 

Azelaic acid also improves excessive sebum production which is beneficial in acneic skin.

Azelaic acid has also been documented to reduce inflammation and redness in rosacea patients.

Potential side effects of azelaic acid depends on the concentration. Common side effects include burning or stinging sensation. Redness and skin dryness can also happen.

By combining glycine, the hydrating agent, into azelaic acid has significantly increased the moisturizing effect; therefore, eliminates the potential stinging and redness with azelaic acid alone. That makes the combined ingredient, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, more versatile in brightening treatment and other problematic skin condition.

Reference:

www.practicaldermatology.com/2013/03/new-insights-into-azelaic-acid

http://www.thedermreview.com/azelaic-acid

J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2009 Jan; 2(1): 26–30

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Lustra/Lustra AF is not available any option?

Lustra is one of the topical skin bleaching creams that contains hydroquinone (HQ) as the key ingredient. 

Hydroquinone is a clinically proven depigmenting agent that is used to lighten hyperpigmentation, or dark spots and patches, age spots, and freckles, by suppressing the melanocyte production by inhibiting tyrosinase (the enzyme that makes melanin).

Vitamins C and E and glycolic acid are also part of this formula, with Vitamin C and E possessing antioxidant effects, where as Glycolic acid acts as an alpha hydroxy acid helping to gently exfoliate and remove dead skin cell. This exfoliation process helps to enhance the absorption of hydroquinone, which allows the formula to produce greater results.

Although Lustra  is currently not available, our clinical medicinal service team has been fielding a lot of inquiries on what clients can use and what could be tailored to fit their needs. As a result, they have formulated a custom compound hydroquinone 4% in a custom formulated sunscreen moisturizing cream base with glycolic acid, Vitamin C, E and antioxidants that works as a valid option for Lustra  clients.

Instructions:

To use hydroquinone products safely and effectively, our clinical team suggests avoiding long term use, recommending that clients take about a 2 month break after 4-6 month period of use. This will help to minimize potential HQ resistance, as well as minimize the potential for adverse effects such as ochronosis (black/bluish discoloration of the skin). Due to the nature of the formula and the effects of the HQ, sun protection is a must while on HQ therapy.

For more information on HQ product,  check out: https://biosenseclinic.com/collections/custom-hydroquinone-4-related-products. Feel free to contact our clinical team for more details. 

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